Handspun Cuff Mittens Crochet Pattern
by Laura Gray
I used Woolstok yarn with a 2.75mm for the body of my mitten.
This is meant to be used as a set of guidelines more than exact stitch-for-stitch pattern. Feel free to change rows, as well as increases and decreases, to suit your hand size and shape. I hope you make a well-tailored mitten that fits your hand perfectly.
Work in the round
Begin with magic circle.
Inside the circle: CH 2, then do 9 DC. Pull tight and anchor with a slip st in top of ch 2
CH 2 (counts as DC st), DC in top of previous row’s ch 2, then increase with 2 DC in each st. Anchor with a slip st in top of ch 2.
CH 2, 2 DC in top of next st, DC in next st, then continue this 1DC, 2DC increase pattern for the round. Anchor with a slip st in top of ch 2.
CH 2, DC in top of next st, 2 DC in next st, then continue DC increase with 2 DC in every third st
Anchor with a slip st in top of ch 2.
this was the end of increases for my hand size. For larger hands, continue increasing until the cirlce seems to be a bit smaller than the width of your fingers.
When you are finished increasing, lengthen the mitten finger tube with DC stitches until it reaches the top of the base of your thumb. For me, this was 20 total rounds.
Adding the thumb:
Chain the desired number of stitches to go around your thumb. Be sure you leave adequate room to fully extend your thumb to the side. For me, this was CH 19. The beginning of this thumb chain will be the beginning of rows from here on.
Anchor in stitch appropriate for your thumb size. For me, I skipped 4 and anchored with a SC in the 5th st. Continue around the circle with a row of SC.
Row 1 after thumb chain:
Once you arrive back to your thumb chain, SC around entire round - This will include adding SC through the chains of the thumb. Be careful that you always add stitches on the same side of the chain and it does not twist as you go. Try to add stitches by going under 2 loops instead of 1, if possible.
Row 2: CH 2, do a complete round of DC, finish with slip st into the top of the ch 2
Row 3: CH 1, SC entire round, finish with slip st in ch 1
Row 4: CH 2, do a complete round of DC, finish with slip st into the top of the ch 2
Row 5: At this point, I had passed the widest part of my hand and wanted to start decreasing so that I had a form-fitting mitten that stayed on my hand well. You can add or subtract rows and decreases to tailor this fit to your hand as needed. CH 2, DC row, but I decreased every 15 stitches.
One option to decrease: YO, insert hook, pull up a loop, insert hook in next stitch, pull up a loop. There will be 4 stitches on your hook. YO, pull through 3 loops, then YO, pull through 2 loops – this turns 2 stitches into 1.
Row 6: CH 2, do a complete round of DC, finish with slip st into the top of the first DC of the round. I did a decrease every 10 stitches to continue tapering the mitten down toward my wrist.
Row 7 CH 2, do a complete round of DC, finish with slip st into the top of the first DC of the round. I did a decrease every 10 stitches to continue tapering the mitten down toward my wrist.
At this point, the mitten had reached the base of my hand. I finished the millspun yarn and switched to handspun yarn to complete the cuff along my wrist.
Completing the thumb: attach yarn, CH 1, SC in each st around thumb hole, slip st to anchor
note: You will have smaller holes and less gaps and, therefore, a warmer mitten if you work the SC stitches into the SC under the thumb, rather than in the chain stitches around the thumb.
Row 1 of thumb: CH 2, DC around thumb hole, anchor with slip st into first DC st of round
Row 2: I started to decrease so the thumb fits snugly. CH 2, DC around, anchor with slip st into first DC. I decreased every 5 stitches
Row 3: I continued decreasing. CH 2, DC around, anchor with slip st into first DC. I decreased every 7 stitches
Row 4: CH 2, DC around thumb hole, anchor with slip st into first DC st of round
continue growing the thumb tube until it almost covers your thumb. For me, this was 4 more rounds of DC
close thumb hole: Once the thumb covers all but the tip of your thumb, it’s time to decrease and close. Decrease for one round, joining every two stitches into one. Continue decreasing for another round, again joining every two stitches into one. This should leave all but a slight gap at the top of the thumb. Join this with 2 to 3 slip stitches and pull tight.
Adding the handspun wrist cuff: It can be difficult to choose an appropriate sized hook for handspun. In general, I tried to choose a handspun yarn that is double the thickness of the millspun yarn I used for the body of the mitten. Then I roughly doubled my hook thickness and attached the handspun to every other stitch in the millspun.
I used a 5mm hook for my handspun. Attach yarn, CH 1, SC around. Assuming a thicker handspun than the millspun as stated above, skip every other stitch. Due to the hook size increase, it is easiest to work your SC stitches between the DC stitches, rather than strictly in the top of them. Work your first round of handspun stitches loosely to ensure the change in yarn weights and hook sizes does not cause the body of the mitten to bunch or bubble.
Do another round of SC stitches, then try on your mitten to ensure the transition from millspun to handspun did not overly tighten the hand opening.
Continue SC rows until the cuff reaches desired length. For me, this was about 7 more rounds. If you want a fitted cuff on your wrist, decrease as needed. When the cuff is finished, anchor with a few slip stitches into the next few stitches (1 sl st per st).
Weave in ends, then turn your mitten inside out. Enjoy your beautiful, cozy hands!